At DukesHill, we take immense pride in the craftsmanship and expertise that goes into every product we make. As part of our Meet The Makers series, we're delighted to introduce you to Mario Lukowski, our Master Curer. With over 20 years of experience, Mario has honed his skills in traditional curing techniques, ensuring that each piece of meat is handled with the utmost care and precision. From his early days as a production operator to his current role as Master Curer, Mario's journey is a testament to the dedication and passion that define DukesHill’s approach to curing. In this Q&A, Mario shares his insights into the art and science of curing meats, the traditions he preserves, and what it takes to create the highest quality products.

About the Role and Expertise:

Can you tell us a bit about your background and how you became the Master Curer at DukesHill?

I started in October 2005, with 20 years in production operations. My first month was spent cleaning, as the factory had just been built, preparing for Christmas. Initially, there were only 7 or 8 of us, and I did a bit of everything—from butchering and curing to packing orders. I originally came to the UK for a short study break, but my love for travel and sport kept me here longer than expected! After five years as a production operator, mainly focused on curing, I became a supervisor. Following that, I slowly progressed in my career to where I am today.

What does a typical day in the life of a Master Curer look like at DukesHill?

My role is about following the plans for production, but as a Master Curer, I must constantly monitor the products. While we have recipes to follow, the key is to observe how the meats behave and adapt. Some products take 5, 7, or even 10 days to mature, so it’s a slow, careful process. Every day involves a different type of cure, from wet to dry curing, and each step requires attention to detail.

How would you describe the art and science behind curing meats? What skills are most important in this process?

Curing meats is a traditional craft that requires immense attention to detail. Every piece of meat is slightly different, so you must adjust according to its size and characteristics. Dry curing, for example, takes time—sometimes several months—so consistency is crucial. You only know the result months later, so any mistakes won’t be visible until much later. Patience is vital.

Craft and Technique:

Curing is such a traditional craft. How do you balance time-honoured techniques with modern advancements?

At DukesHill, we stick to traditional methods. The only significant change we’ve made in recent years is reducing the use of preservatives, almost halving them over the past decade. This requires us to be even more meticulous in applying them and checking the quality. But the core process remains unchanged—we respect the tradition.

What are some of the most important factors to ensure the highest quality in cured meats, from start to finish?

Time is the most important factor. Rushing the process will result in inferior products. Once you have your method in place, you need to be patient and let each product mature at its own pace. There are no shortcuts.

Are there any specific curing methods or ingredients that you’re particularly passionate about? Why?

I’m particularly passionate about dry curing, as it dates back 300-400 years. For instance, our Shropshire Black recipe is nearly 400 years old! This long history gives the dry cure flavour its unique depth and complexity.

Interestingly, the drying process we use at DukesHill is similar at the start to the methods used in Southern Europe for products like ibérico chorizo. However, the UK climate doesn’t allow us to complete the entire process the way they do in warmer, drier regions. In the UK, we dry cure with salt, then mature the product in salt for 3-4 weeks. After that, we hang the meat in a dry room, vacuum pack it, and let it mature further in the bag before steaming it. The combination of our curing and cooking process creates a unique, rich flavour.

How does DukesHill’s approach to curing set it apart from other producers?

I’ve grown up with DukesHill, so it’s hard to compare to other producers. But, I truly believe that we create the best finished products.

DukesHill is known for its premium cured meats. What makes DukesHill’s products stand out in terms of flavour and quality?

We are proud to be the best British producer, and we consistently deliver the highest quality. The attention to detail and the dedication to the craft is what sets us apart.

Can you share any secrets or special techniques that are unique to DukesHill’s curing process?

The secret is in the people! We have a team of passionate individuals who truly care about their craft. Techniques are developed and refined by the team as a whole, and that’s why our methods are so special. It’s about dedication, love, and teamwork.

Challenges and Rewards:

What’s the most challenging aspect of being a Master Curer?

The most challenging part is the patience required for traditional curing methods. We work by hand, and there’s a huge responsibility to maintain consistency. The pressure is always there—especially when producing at the highest quality. But it’s something we take great pride in.

Curing meat is a delicate process—have you ever had a project or batch that didn’t go as planned? How did you handle it?

We do everything we can to prevent issues, but sometimes things go wrong. For example, if a fridge breaks down, it can ruin a batch. When that happens, we reject the product. If it’s not the best, we can’t compromise.

What’s the most rewarding part of your work?

The best reward is hearing positive feedback from customers. It’s great when customers return again and again because they trust our product. We’ve built loyalty over the years, and knowing that we deliver the highest quality gives me immense pride.

If you’re making the highest quality products, then working with happy people is the key. Having a job at DukesHill isn't just about a salary—it’s about passion. It’s why our team stays with us for so long, some for 15-18 years! This consistency helps maintain our high standards.

Personal Passion: 

What is it about curing meats that first drew you in and keeps you passionate about it today?

I’ve always been drawn to the traditional methods of curing. It’s a delicate process that requires time and care, and the results are incredibly rewarding. That’s what keeps me passionate even after 20 years.

Are there any particular cured meats you enjoy making the most or are most proud of?

I’m particularly proud of our Shropshire Black and York ham. These are unique products you can’t find anywhere else, and we only make limited numbers, making them extra special.

Do you have a favourite pairing or dish using DukesHill’s cured meats?

I don’t often need a pairing because the quality of the meat speaks for itself. But, I do love Wiltshire ham with piccalilli, especially with fresh bread. The balance of sour and salty is perfect!

Looking Forward:

For someone interested in getting into curing, what advice would you give them?

My advice would be to start with the book Manual of a Traditional Bacon Curer by Maynard Davies, a Master Curer. It offers the most in-depth information on the craft and is incredibly fascinating to read. It not only explains the curing process but also shares insights into how we make products like York hams. The book even includes a few images from inside DukesHill, which gives a real sense of the process. Beyond that, it’s essential to have a solid foundation in food safety and hygiene, as curing is a serious process that involves eliminating harmful bacteria to produce safe, high-quality products. Always seek advice from professionals and continuously learn from others in the field.

What’s next for DukesHill?

We’re always looking to expand and improve, so we might need a bigger warehouse soon! But rest assured, we’ll continue to focus on producing the highest quality products, just as we always have.