Meet the Makers: Master Butcher, Tom Emery
In this edition of Meet the Makers, we sit down with Tom Emery, DukesHill’s Master Butcher, to delve into his journey, expertise, and the art of butchery that makes DukesHill's meats stand out. With almost two decades of experience in the craft, Tom shares insights into his role, the techniques that define his work, and what makes DukesHill’s butchery process truly special.
Can you share a bit about your journey and how you became the Master Butcher at DukesHill?
I started my career in butchery quite by chance. I was made redundant in 2008 and took a job in a butcher’s shop. It was the only place that offered work with long hours, and I learned a lot from the team. I spent ten years in a small town on the England/Wales border, working in three different shops. After that, I joined DukesHill, where I’ve been for six years. I’ve had the privilege of learning from older butchers, like Rob McCain, who taught me traditional methods and the anatomy of animals, which is essential in this craft.
What does a typical day look like for you as the Master Butcher at DukesHill, and what are your key responsibilities?
Every day is different, but my main responsibility is to ensure everything we produce is of the highest quality. We’re very hands-on here and do almost everything by hand. My day usually starts early—driving an hour to work. Mondays, we focus on the legs, putting them on racks for hanging. Tuesdays are for fresh meats, which we prepare entirely by hand. Wednesday’s all about curing and salting our York hams and bacon. It’s a physically demanding job, with a lot of manual lifting, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Butchery is both an art and a science. How would you describe the skills and techniques that are most important in your role as a Master Butcher?
The most important skill is hand-eye coordination, especially with techniques like seam butchery. You need to follow the natural seams between muscles without cutting into them, which can be very challenging. It requires a steady hand and good eyesight. It’s almost like surgery in a way—keeping the muscle intact is crucial for achieving the best cuts. Being precise and knowing the anatomy of the animal is key.
How do you balance classic techniques with modern advancements in butchery to ensure the highest quality?
At DukesHill, we lean heavily on traditional techniques. Modern machines may speed up some processes, but they often sacrifice quality. We prefer to take the time to do things properly, like using a skilled pair of hands for delicate cuts such as tunnel boning. Quality always comes first, and that’s a mindset we take into everything we do. The balance comes from knowing when to use technology to assist and when to rely on our hands to get the job done right.
What are the key factors that contribute to achieving the highest quality cuts of meat, from the initial selection to the final product?
It all starts with sourcing the best meat. We only buy from trusted suppliers who meet our strict standards for fat content, weight, and quality. Every cut we prepare has to follow specific guidelines, and the team here is meticulous in ensuring that we meet those standards. It’s also important to cut the meat in the right way. For example, we pay close attention to how the meat will be sliced and how it’s going to be cooked so that it’s at its best for the customer.
Are there any specific butchery techniques or cuts that you’re particularly passionate about? What makes them special to you?
I’ve always enjoyed tunnel-boning a Wiltshire ham. It’s a technique that requires a lot of precision, and the end result is something really special. Every cut we do has its own charm, and it’s the attention to detail that makes it stand out.
What sets DukesHill apart from other producers in terms of butchery and meat preparation?
What really sets DukesHill apart is the care and dedication everyone puts into the work. There’s a real commitment to quality here, and we’re not about churning out products as quickly as possible. It’s about taking the time to do things properly. The whole team shares that mindset, and that’s one of the reasons I love working here. I travel an hour every day because of the people and the way we work together to create the best products.
What do you believe makes our cuts of meat stand out in terms of flavour and texture?
The texture of meat can be greatly affected by the way it's cut. For example, if you’re cutting a primal, the angle at which you cut can impact how the meat feels when you eat it. We’re very conscious of how our customers will be cooking and slicing their meat, so we ensure everything is cut in the best way possible. The result is tender, flavourful meat that truly shines when prepared.
Can you share any techniques or approaches unique to DukesHill’s butchery process that contribute to the exceptional quality of our meats?
Some of our techniques are closely guarded trade secrets, but I can say that we focus heavily on precision and quality control at every stage. Our approach combines traditional craftsmanship with a real understanding of the anatomy of the animals we work with. Whether it’s our Wiltshire hams or our bacon, every step is designed to preserve and enhance the natural flavours and textures of the meat.
What’s the most challenging part of being a Master Butcher at DukesHill, and how do you overcome those challenges?
The physical aspect of the job is definitely the most challenging. Butchery is hard work—there’s a lot of manual labour, especially when it comes to handling large cuts of meat. But you have to stay fit and healthy to keep up with the demands. Another challenge is ensuring consistency in the quality of our cuts. We cut everything by eye and with a set of scales, which can be tricky, especially with premium cuts like wagyu. But experience and precision are key to overcoming those challenges.
Butchery is a delicate craft. Have you ever encountered a situation where a project didn’t go as planned?
There have been a few instances, especially with new product development. Butchery now is very chef-focused, so the goal is to prepare cuts that are ready to use right away. Sometimes, balancing flavours can be tricky, but you learn to adapt and find the right balance. It’s all part of the process, and it’s about learning from each experience and improving for next time.
What’s the most rewarding aspect of your work as DukesHill’s Master Butcher?
The most rewarding part is definitely hearing from happy customers. I really enjoy reading positive reviews and knowing that the work we put into each product is appreciated. It’s rewarding to know that we’re contributing to people’s meals and making a difference in their lives.
What first sparked your passion for butchery, and what continues to drive your love for the craft today?
When I first started as a butcher, I really enjoyed the customer interaction. Understanding what people wanted to cook and helping them find the perfect cut was something that really sparked my passion. Over the years, I’ve learned a lot from customers—whether it’s cooking tips or new recipes—and that’s something I still carry with me today.
Do you have a favourite way to enjoy DukesHill’s meats? Any particular pairing or dish that showcases the quality of our products?
For me, it’s always going to be a simple ribeye steak and chips. Or, I love a good sirloin roast with Yorkshire puddings. You really don’t need to overcomplicate things when the meat is of such high quality. A few simple ingredients are all you need to let the flavours shine.
What do you see for the future of butchery, especially in terms of new techniques or trends?
I think seam butchery is definitely the future, especially for beef. It’s a technique that can reduce waste and increase yields, but it’s still a skill that’s difficult to learn. As for the overall future of butchery, I think we’ll see more machines taking over, but the artisan side of butchery will always have a place. It’s something I’m passionate about passing on to the next generation.
For someone interested in pursuing a career in butchery, what advice would you give them based on your experience?
The best advice I can give is to get hands-on experience and learn from the older generation of butchers. There’s so much knowledge in the craft, and it’s important to learn the traditional techniques. Butchery is also a great way to meet new people—you’ll find that every region has its own way of doing things, and there’s always something new to learn.
What’s next for DukesHill? Are there any new products or innovations on the horizon that you’re particularly excited about?
We’re always looking to innovate. One thing I’m particularly excited about is working towards a zero-waste approach, where all of our waste goes into energy. We’re also looking to cut down on single-use plastics. I’d love to try creating new products like tea-cured ham or even beef jerky. We’re constantly experimenting with new ideas and finding ways to improve what we do.
We hope you’ve enjoyed this insightful look into the world of butchery with Tom Emery, DukesHill’s Master Butcher. His passion, skill, and dedication to quality make him an invaluable part of the DukesHill team, ensuring that every product that leaves our butchery is of the highest standard.
Stay tuned for more Meet the Makers features, where we showcase the talented individuals behind our exceptional products.
